We Tried 8 Different Methods for Making Latkes and Found Crispy-Outside, Fluffy-Inside Perfection

here are a few foods that, if I were in an eating contest with them, I think I could win. Latkes are one of those foods. Maybe it’s because I usually only eat them once a year. Or maybe it’s because, when topped with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of chives, they’re my idea of a perfect food.

Each year, I pick one night of Hanukkah and invite friends over to witness the miracle of the oil in real time with a big latke-focused feast. I fry up dozens, storing them in a warm oven and switching out platters until the last potato pancake is gone. I serve them with sour cream, lox, smoked whitefish, caviar if I’m feeling fancy, and, begrudgingly, applesauce for those who need it. (Fine if this is you, but I’ve got very specific opinions on the issue, and we’ll have to just leave it at that.)

So when Kitchn tapped me to compare eight different methods for making latkes, I was enthusiastically on board — for research, for science, and for an incredibly delicious Hanukkah party to come!

After trying eight different approaches to making latkes, I found that adding baking powder yielded the best results — a perfectly crispy exterior with a fluffy interior that surpassed all of the others. This is an example of a small change that makes a big difference, and after years of making latkes the same way, I’m excited to up my game this Hanukkah with this new trick.

For this showdown, I needed a standard recipe, so I chose this easy, classic latke recipe. It uses Idaho potatoes that have been shredded in a food processor with an onion, plus egg, matzo meal, salt, and pepper. The latkes are fried in vegetable oil (or a mix of vegetable oil and schmaltz, but for this trial, I went with just oil) in a pan on the stove for about four minutes on each side, over medium-high heat.

The tests: I tested these recipes over the course of a week, using the same stove, pan, and ingredients except in the cases where those were the factors I was testing. I tried a sample (or two, or three … ) from each batch after allowing them to rest for about five minutes.

Ratings: This trial was primarily about achieving the perfect latke texture, which, admittedly, is a bit subjective. My goal was to discover the method that could give me latkes that were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. I was looking for latkes that browned evenly without getting too crunchy, with thoroughly cooked potatoes throughout.